FASHION THROUGH THE AGES
GOD SAVE THE QUEEN
The young Queen Elizabeth’s coronation.
SANDOW THE STRONG MAN, 1894, .20
Eugene Sandow flexes his muscular physique for the camera. Produced by the Edison Kinetoscope.
Along with the film Serpentine Dance, this film of Sandow was included in the first Wellington programme 28 October 1896: “an electric knob is touched, and where all was darkness there appears an illumination, and Sandow, ‘the strong man, not a picture but Sandow in his habit as he lives, displaying every feature of his marvellous muscular power and physical strength...” Evening Post 27 October 1896
SERPENTINE DANCE, 1895, 1.00
A “Skirt Dance”, a popular vaudeville attraction, performed by Annabelle Moore.
This film was shown at Wellington’s first public screening of motion pictures, held at the Exchange Hall, 28 October 1896.
“But the palm among the pictures must be accorded to a skirt dance..., the limelight effects of which were beautifully rendered, while the grace of the evolutions far exceeded any dancing we have seen in New Zealand.” - (Evening Post, 29 October, 1896)
HINGE FAMILY 1910, 1.30
The Christchurch family pose in their finery for the camera. Photographed by Leslie Hinge.
ACROSS THE MOUNTAIN PASSES OF NEW ZEALAND 1910, 4.01
A horse drawn coach winds its way through the Buller Gorge and the town of Lyell transporting passengers and post. Pathe Freres colour cinematography'
2 ft. 'The descent to the lakes'
4 ft. W.S. Small town beneath hills 4 horse-drawn coach comes up hill & passes camera.
16 ft. View of road, men walking up, horse & cart going down, man working at side of road.
23 ft. E.L.S. Road cut from overhanging cliff, coach crosses bridge, comes past camera. People sitting on outside of coach.
41 ft. W.S. Waterfall, man walks across bridge at top.
49 ft. View of coach coming through high arch of rock.
74 ft. 'The postal service is conducted daily by diligence'.
79 ft. W.S. of coachman picking up bag hanging on stick.
95 ft. L.S. 2 horses & cart, man on bike, man walking on road, bush to edge, mountains in background.
105 ft. W.S. Coach glimpsed through bush, camera follows as coach crosses bridge & passes by.
124 ft. 'On the glittering river'.
127 ft. Pan across wide river, people on long jetty.
136 ft. Horses & coach fording river - 5 horses.
153 ft. L.S. People in motor boat going alongside river bank with bush, flax, towing boat with camera.
181 ft. Shot of tall trees, bush at river's edge.
191 ft. L.S. Boat coming up river, very tall trees, passes camera.
211 ft. W.S. River, bush, bridge at rear. Boat appears, passes camera.
236 ft. M.L.S. Men pulling boat up out of river in foreground, Large mountains at rear.
252 ft. L.S. Women walking along bush track, man helps older woman over obstacle.
269 ft. End.
VANITY FAIR ..., 1920, 1.01 (excerpt)
Woman modelling bag and powder boxes.
‘Vanity Fair. Eve’s Novelties in Pathecolor’.
‘Originality - combined, of course, with utility - is the keynote of Eve’s vanity requisites. For instance, take their “butterfly” bag -’. Woman holding bag in shape of butterfly, with wings made of ruched fabric and an abdomen which opens to reveal a mirror.
‘For powder boxes, how do you like these?’ Woman’s hand lifts lid ofpowder box to reveal a powder puff attached to a duck handle. Woman lifts lid of second powder box to reveal a powder puff attached to a handle in the shape of a woman. Woman uses powder puff on her face.
FUR FOR THE FAIR ONES, 192- , 2.00
.‘Fur for the Fair Ones’. ‘“And dark ones, too”, says Paris, in these long fur-trimmed jackets - the fashion at the moment in Paris - ‘. Three women in dresses and jackets walk down the street. Clothes shown in various poses. ‘If the cold spell spells too cold - then one may fall back on the complete fur model’. Three women in fur coats and hats. Each is shown individually.
PATHE NEW 67: FASHION PARADES 1924, 1.25
‘St. Louis, Mo. Ladies, attention! Long waistlines and large hats keynote of fall styles - - 1924 Fashion Revue hints at what’s “in vogue”’. Models emerge through structure beside a pool, where they line up to show the dresses they are wearing. Closer views of dresses.
‘Winter coats also have long, graceful lines...’.Models, women and children’ parade in coats (some fur).
‘Here’s an idea for your wardrobe - - in 1950!’ Women in futuristic costumes (skirts like lanterns), carrying lanterns on sticks. Woman in shiny all-in-one costume (halter neck).
GAUMONT MIRROR: MEN MANNEQUINS 1929, 1.50
‘Men Mannequins filmed for the first time!. Work in the office could be picturesque if the sterner sex would wear artificial silk shirts and shorts, suggested recently by Lady Rhondda’. Three men sitting in living room, drinking tea, wearing coloured silk shirts and shorts.
‘Attired in this office wear, these men show how bright colours would relieve the drabness of the City man’s clothes’. Two of the men, both holding pipes, shake hands, and one walks off. Remaining two in the living room - both walk off.
‘For business or sport these Celanese suits are equally suitable’. Two of the men, now dressed in white tops and shorts (for one) and trousers (for the other), sit in the living room holding tennis racquets. They shake hands and have a cup of tea. They leave with their racquets.
PROGRESSIVE NEWMARKET 1921 excerpt 3.00
Big Chief Film Productions
At McCarthy’s Tailor in Auckland the factory workers, mainly women are shown and a man is fitted for a new suit. The film documents the fitting and also the finished suit being modelled.
A close up of window signage stating ‘D.McCarthy - Tailor’ with a reflection of the cameraman in the window. The tailor and a customer discuss the material for a new suit.
“After picking the cloth.” “The suit is then cut out and sent to the workroom.” The tailor measures and cuts the material and a group of workers at various tasks in the workroom. “Then comes the first fitting.” “The suit is now finished and all are satisfied.” The man models the suit.
[MOTION PICTURE BATHING BEAUTY CONTEST] 1925, 1.00
Fragments, believed to be from the “Motion Picture Bathing Beauty Contest” organised in conjunction with the Grand Theatre, Auckland, to discover Auckland’s most beautiful bathing girl, showing six competitors in bathing costumes.
Filming of the contestants took place at Shelly Beach, Auckland, on Saturday, February 14, and also (possibly at other locations) on Sunday, February 15, 1925. The “N.Z. Herald” reported that “the services of Mr. Rudall Hayward, motion picture producer, and Mr. Frank Stewart, an expert cinematographer, were secured to conduct the competition.”
At that time Hayward was preparing to film “Rewi’s Last Stand” for Maori War Films, Ltd. The cameraman for this feature film was Frank Stewart. The first of the “bathing beauty” contestants depicted appears to be Nola Casselli, who was chosen to play the role of Cecily Wake in “Rewi’s Last Stand”. Might this contest have been a form of screen test? The “Motion Picture Bathing Beauty Contest” film was screened at the Grand Theatre, Auckland, from February 17, 1925, and voting papers were distributed to enable the audience to act as judges. The leading candidate prior to the last night of voting was “Miss Rua, of Milford” (possibly a pseudonym) with 682 votes, 81 ahead of her nearest rival, but no record has been found identifying the eventual winner.Clive Sowry Report December 2007
HAMILTON SHINGLE & BUSTER CONTEST ,1926 3.30
Contestants in a haircut competition rotated on a chair in front of the camera.
NEW ZEALAND INDUSTRIES [COLE’S FOOTWEAR] 1927
Camera: Edwin Coubray
0 ft. Intertitles: “New Zealand Industries”.
10 ft. “The manufacture of Footwear has reached as high a standard of production in New Zealand, as in any part of the world”.
16 ft. “The 'Kapai' Boot Factory of Messrs. G.A. Coles & Co. Auckland, is equipped with the latest British machinery and is staffed with highly skilled operators. It is the most up-to-date factory in the Dominion and its product is eagerly sought after from Auckland to the Bluff”.
50 ft. “The importance of the Boot and Shoe industry affording as it does pleasant and profitable employment to a large body of New Zealanders, warrants the screening of the following interesting views of Coles' works and workers”.
72 ft. “New Zealanders! Support your local industries”.
85 ft. “Always wear Coles' Shoes Procurable from leading Footwear Retailers & General Storekeepers through the Dominion”.
105 ft. C.U. Sign on exterior of factory , “G.A. Coles & Co. Ltd. Established 1885 Boot and shoe manufacturers & importers. Makers of the following registered brands, Kapai, Patriata, Thamptonian, King Cole, G.A.C., Pilgrim”.
119 ft. Exterior view of factory. Truck loaded at door, tram passing in adjacent street. Pan right showing size of factory.
165 ft. “Managing Director closing leather contracts”.
169 ft. Two men at a table.
183 ft. “Delivering four tons of leather to factory”. Loaded truck, sign, “Sutherland Onehunga”, pulling up by factory.
186 ft. Two men unload rolled lengths of leather.
222 ft. “Upper leather room and general view of upper cutting room”.
230 ft. Pan right leather stacked on shelves.
244 ft. “Machining uppers, vamping and general view of machine room”.
253 ft. C.U. Woman sewing at machine.
284 ft. M.S. Pan right, women workers in machine room.
324 ft. “Sole Leather Department”.
327 ft. M.S. Men working with machinery.
337 ft. Man at machine cutting leather. C.U. roller machine pressing leather.
358 ft. Stamping out shapes (soles).
372 ft. “Sole Layer, Rounder, and Stitcher, Sole Leveller, Finishing Room”.
381 ft. Man at machine.
392 ft. M.S. Men at machines.
404 ft. “Heel building, Compressing, and Slugging”.
408 ft. C.U. Construction of heel (poor quality).
421 ft. C.U. Stitching of heel.
434 ft. “Lasting Department. Pulling over, lasting, soling, welting and sole sewing machines”.
445 ft. Pan left, men at machines.
453 ft. C.U. Detail of work at machine.
515 ft. Another man at his machine.
535 ft. C.U. Stretching sole at machine, lasting.
563 ft. Further stitching of sole.
586 ft. “Attaching Heels. Another view of finishing room. Cleaning up and boxing”.
595 ft. Two men at machine attaching heels.
621 ft. Pan right, view of finishing rooms.
628 ft. Machine finishing heels.
657 ft. “Grading Patterns”.
659 ft. Patterns of soles.
683 ft. C.U. Measuring length [string]. C.U. Stitching sole to shoe. M.S. Factory floor.
703 ft. “Warehouse Showing one week's output, 3000 pairs”.
708 ft. Pan right, stacking cartons.
743 ft. Truck, ‘Winstone Ltd Bricks Sand Cement' leaving factory with boxes.
749 ft. Cole's Footwear advertisement logo. Seated woman displaying shoes, Cole’s emblem.
753 ft. C.U. Woman trying on new shoes, stands, turns.
802 ft. “Always wear ‘Coles’ Shoes. Procurable from leading Footwear Retailers & General Storekeepers throughout the Dominion”.
806 ft. (Last frame) End.
[WESTPORT CARNIVAL] 1928 excerpt 4.00
The film shows a range of sporting activities including the competitors and spectators at an axemen’s competition and trotting races.
379 ft. 'At the Axemen's Carnival we saw good chopping'.
385 ft. L.S. axemen.
439 ft. C.U. winner and his block, boys and men crowding behind.
443 ft. View of grandstand, race track, trotting race.
461 ft. C.U. women and girls in crowd.
471 ft. 'Oh - !! - ??'.
474 ft. C.U. women in crowd. View of track from fence.
516 ft. Crowd scenes, women with parasols.
525 ft. Pan across club officials .
Fred Thorn collection ca1939, excerpts , 4.00
Street scenes, daily life and a wedding at Waiuta, filmed by store keeper Fred Thorn on his 8mm camera.
MODERN SHOE SERVICING, 1947, 9.11
“The Auckland Footwear Repair Co. Ltd. presents”
“Modern Shoe Servicing”
“Photographed by A.H. Reynolds”
“The old time repairer did all his work by slow hand methods”
Shots of hand shoe repair
“What a contrast -- Modern machines for speeding up and improving the work”
Shot of mechanical stitcher
“Efficient service is provided by our main Newmarket factory”
Exterior shot of shop
Woman walks into shop & talks to shoe repairer
“Thank you. They will be ready by 4:30 today” Woman leaves shop
“We provide a service for the Agents in many small town & country districts”
Men unloading shoe repair sacks from back of van, empty bag inside, put shoes out & check tags
“Rolling to consolidate the fibres of the leather”
Shot of rolling
“First the shoe is prepared on the last”
Shots of shoe being repaired on last
“The shoe is ready for the machines”
Shots of people repairing shoes on machines
“Electrically heated wax is used on the thread of stitching machines”
Shots of stitching machine
Man takes shoe away from hand shoe stitching man & takes it to stitching machine
“Ladies work is done on the latest Lockstitch Blake Machine”
Shots of Lockstitch machine & shoe being repaired
“this wire screwing machine does heavy types of boots”
Shots of wire screwing machine
“The Finishing process”
Shots of shoes being finished on machines
“All finished work is checked & priced before dispatch”å
Shots of checking, pricing & shoes going into agency bags
Man takes shoes in agency sacks to van, loads up & leaves (Colour)
Hand shoe repairer struggles on
“The Auckland Footwear Repair Co. Ltd. hope you enjoy this film of their factory”
CINE CLUB ADVERTISING FILM 1956, excerpt .50
36. 30 - 37.12 Otago Cine Club adverisements made for a range of local businesses, in full colour.
- The Nylon Box “the hosiery specialists”
gloves, turning display of model legs wearing garters
END HERE - Roslyn Woollen Mills
PERSONAL RECORD. MOFFITT, BILL. WESTPORT CENTENNIAL 1873-1973 excerpt 2.00
An amateur film by: Bill MoffItt. Centennial events include scenes of the crowd watching a wood chopping display.
SOUND ITEMS BELOW
GOSSARD ..IS MADE IN NZ 195- .40
Gossard foundation garments made in New Zealand are the same as those sold in over 40 countries throughout the world.Various styles are on display inside the store.
“Gossard IS MADE IN NEW ZEALAND” Robert Steele
THE WONDERFUL WIZARD OF BRAS, 1954, 7.50
A promotional film for Whirlpool brassieres. Women dance through a smoke screen wearing bras and skirts. Making the most of themselves with Whirlpool bras, made for every occasion - Daytime, Playtime, or Datetime.
IN GOOD HANDS. A REPORT ON NEW ZEALAND INDUSTRY 1957, excerpt 2.00
The National Fashion show of 1957, showing women on the catwalk, including the first Maori model, and scenes backstage.
Includes a sequence of a stocking factory, and a tannery showing the manufacture of shoes and boots. Pacific Films
HUTT VALLEY - YOUTH CLUB, 1958, 2.40
Teenagers from the Hutt Valley Youth Club, meet on Sunday afternoons during the winter months, at the Taita Community Hall. Dancing, music, sports activities and games are just a few of them. Parents too, are encouraged to take an active part in the club. PICTORIAL PARADE 79
L FOR LEATHER, 1960 excerpt 1.00
Shoes for impatient feet, loving feet....style, colour from the 1960s.
THE CHICKS C'mon (extract) 196-, 1.01
Our very own Chicks, the style, the music and the dancers pushed boundaries hitherto untried.
TV ADVERTISING 1960s
JOCKEY UNDERWEAR. Stars actor Peter Harcourt in a Bank. Banned by NZBC- 1.00
DALE SLACKS AND SHORTS .45
Mother is taking a photo of father and son by the pool. She tells them to step back and they fall in. Sister comes running around in a bikini and laughs while mother looks worried. Luckily they never need ironing.Peach wemyss
GOLDEN SHEARS. INTERNATIONAL SHEARING CHAMPIONSHIP 1961 excerpt, 2.00
The film ends with a fashion parade at the Masterton Stadium, of woollen fashions demonstrating the beauty of the golden fleece - queen of fabrics. Caltex/Tasman Vaccine.
YOUNG MISS & YOUNG MISTER NEW ZEALAND 1963, 2.47
Encourages New Zealanders to enter the Philips 1963 Young Miss and Mister New Zealand contest.
A young man and woman shopping in a department store notice the contest poster and dream of winning. Miss New Zealand will spend a year on the Continent at a finishing school, while Mister New Zealand will be at an American university. Both will receive a new wardrobe.
THE UNCERTAIN SEASON, 1962 excerpt 3.00
The Uncertain Season is a pictorial essay by Shirley Maddock about spring - including the most chic hats, modelled outside in a rural setting NZBC
LOWER HUTT - HEADS TO WIN, 1964, 3.00
The first national hairdressing competition is held in the Lower Hutt townhall. Competitors are shampooed and dried at salons nearby. Competitions include the open hair cutting event, the open competition for a day style and evening styles - “make the lovely lady an evening enchantress”.
The prizes are awarded later at the ball. David Bradley of Christchurch takes away the silver cup. “Part of a woman’s pride is her plume.”PICTORIAL PARADE 154
MISS WORLD IN NEW ZEALAND, 1965
At the Lower Hutt Town Hall, finalists for the 'Hutt Valley Wool Princess' model garments for the Wool Award Fashion parade. The evening's highlight is when winner Miss Billy White is crowned by Miss World, who is on a four day tour of New Zealand. Pictorial Parade 164, National Film Unit.
MISS NEW ZEALAND (excerpt) 1973 1. 54,
Miss Southland is introduced & totters on stage in her platforms
RESTON’S 1971 FASHION FOOTAGE. HOTPANTS, 1971 excerpt 2.00
A fashion show in rehersal presenting the works of [Zarko Milich].
Intertitle: “Zarko Milich in association with Sonny Knitwear presents Anthony Milich at his Majesty’s Theatre in Hotskirts and Hotpants Monday 8th November 1971
Filmed for the for the ‘On Camera’ show. NZBC
PETER WALTERS FASHION SHOW ca1983
Representative of Wright Cars Palmerston North introduces Peter Walters, who in turn introduces the fashion parade of leather (deer skin) products.
Several amateur models parade various 1980s fashion garments.
.... BY MACJAYS, 1985, excerpt
Promotional tape for Macjay’s fashions..usual modelling suspects..DMK 07/12/2005
“Gumboots by Macjays”Reynolds Film Production.
KOHA. 13/07/1986 excerpt
Maori fashion--a look at some local designers: Hana Jackson, Maria Scally, Matiu Chote, Richard Bell.
HEARTLAND: GROWING UP IN FENDALTON 1994 excerpt 3.00
At Merivale Couturiers Jenny Gowans is being fitted for a ball dress which is modelled on one worn by Lady Di. Robyn Ratcliff talks about the number of ball gowns they produce for school girls, the Cancer Ball, and various other charity balls. Anson Grieve Productions
THE WAY WE WERE, 1997 excerpt 2.06
Paul Holmes gives his interpretation of counterculture and hippies. Changing masculinity is shown in fashion, grooming and personal hygiene as well as hobbies such as cooking and knitting. Communicado.
WELLA FASHION REPORT: AUTUMN 1999 excerpt
“Rebecca Gibney hosts a look at Autumn fashion. Craig Parker and Sonia Gray also present items. Featuring items on: NZ’s best known fashion design school, Wellington Polytech; the history of lingerie; what we wear underneath and why, and looks at hair and make-up trends for Autumn. There are profiles of designers Gaye and Deanne Bartlett and Sabatini.” - (New Zealand Listener)
MONTANA NEW ZEALAND WEARABLE ART AWARDS 2000 excerpt 3.00
Air NZ’s Pacific section - extraordinary creations made from paua shells, tapa cloth, beads and feathers...